One of the biggest threats to your house comes in the form of tiny pests that silently and invisibly consume or live in wood—from the sills of your foundation to the rafters of your roof. Known by exterminators as WDIs, wood-destroying insects cause more than $1 billion a year in property damage in the United States, according to Orkin, a nationwide pest-control company.

“It’s not unheard of to see a home with termite damage in the tens of thousands of dollars,” says Greg Bauman, senior scientist with the National Pest Management Association. “I’ve personally seen a home with $1 million in repair costs. It probably would have been better to bulldoze the house.”

That may be an extreme case, but it demonstrates that what you can’t see can hurt you. WDIs can be hard to detect with the naked eye unless you know what to look for.

Depending on moisture levels, climate, and location of a colony (they’re more active in warm, moist conditions), it could take three to eight years before the signs of an infestation—serious damage to your house—are apparent.

“If you don’t catch them early, you’re setting yourself up to spend a lot more on both treatment and repairs than you otherwise would,” says Ron Harrison, technical director at Orkin.

Here are a few tips for how to spot wood-destroying pests.

Termites

Habitat: The most common type, subterranean termites, cause 95% of all termite damage in North America. Found in every state except Alaska, termites are most prevalent in the South; the so-called termite belt stretches across the Southeast from Virginia to Texas.

Clues: You can suss out an infestation by poking wood with a screwdriver; if the tip goes in easily or you hear a hollow sound when you tap the wood with the handle, you might have a problem.

Be on the lookout for a thin gritty gray-brown film on the surface of damaged material. And look for narrow mud tubes on both the interior and exterior of your walls and foundation. Termites travel though these tubes between their colony below the ground and their dinner above—your house.

The one time they come out in the open is when they swarm. Swarms consist of flying “reproductives” that leave the colony, mainly in spring, to mate and start new colonies. You may not spot the swarm itself because the love bugs shed their wings and head underground within a few hours.

Instead, look for discarded wings that resemble fish scales. Swarms can emerge indoors or outdoors. Evidence of an indoor swarm, such as discarded wings or the corpses of termites that couldn’t find a way out, is a sure sign your home is infested.

Most likely to damage: “Almost anything that contains cellulose, the main component of wood, including wood paneling, paper products, cardboard boxes, art canvases, the paper covering of sheet rock, carpeting,” according to the North Carolina Cooperative Extension.

Carpenter ants

Habitat: Carpenter ants bore into damp and decayed wood to make nests. Most common in northern states, these pests forage through your home, mostly at night, looking for water and food. They’ll eat just about anything people do and are especially fond of sweets, fat, and protein.

Clues: Look for swarmers in the spring and for piles of frass—a mixture of wood shavings and fecal matter. Rustling sounds may indicate a nest.

Most likely to damage: “Tunneling may cause serious structural damage if it occurs in key timbers,” according to the Maryland Cooperative Extension. “The existence of a carpenter ant colony inside a structure is usually most important as a sign that there is or has been a water problem.”

Carpenter bees

Habitat: Common in all regions, carpenter bees burrow into wood—preferably unfinished—to make nests. They drill almost perfectly round entry holes about 1 to 2 inches in diameter that lead to tunnels where they lay their eggs.

Clues: Look for them hovering near eaves, decks, and siding.

Most likely to damage: Carpenter bees are less likely to cause serious structural damage than termites or carpenter ants. However, their entry holes can allow moisture to enter the wood.

Powderpost beetles

Habitat: These wood-boring beetles lay their eggs in cracks, crevices, and wood pores. The hatching larvae then feed on the wood. Present in all regions.

Clues: Look for powdery deposits of frass and pinhead-size holes made by adult beetles exiting the wood. The peak time for beetles to emerge is May through August.

Most likely to damage: Anobiid powderpost beetles attack softwood species such as spruce, pine, and fir that are commonly used to make floor joists, wall studs, and other structural lumber, according to the North Carolina Cooperative Extension. Lyctid powderpost beetles attack only hardwoods, such as oak, ash, hickory, and maple used in furniture, cabinets, wooden floors, and some interior moldings/trim.

Call in a pest inspector

No matter how vigilant you are, consider scheduling a professional inspection at least every few years, says David Tamny, owner of Professional Pest Inspection in Columbus, Ohio, and president of the American Society of Home Inspectors. “Professionals bring a skill set that enable them to spot things a lay person could miss,” Tamny says.

Many pest control companies will perform a free inspection for WDIs and for conditions conducive to infestations, such as moisture. Keep in mind, though, that pest control companies hope the inspection leads to the purchase of treatment services. Hiring someone who performs only inspections eliminates that potential conflict of interest, Tamny says.

A WDI inspection will likely cost between $100 to $200, depending on the size of the home. Expect the inspector to pull on coveralls and spend about an hour probing your home from the attic to the crawl space for visible signs of infestation and damage.

For around $100 to $400 a year, some pest control companies will perform annual WDI inspections that come with warranties. If the inspection reveals WDIs and/or damage, the company will eradicate the infestation and make any necessary repairs at no extra charge.

One possible catch: You may be required to sign up for a round of preventive treatment at a one-time cost of $1,000 to $5,000.

Brad Broberg is a freelance writer from Federal Way, Wash. A former newspaper reporter and editor, he writes about business and real estate for REALTOR® Magazine and the Puget Sound Business Journal, among others. He’s lived in the same home for 22 years—a home he shares with seven towering Douglas firs.

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The roof of your house protects against more than rain. The sun’s rays beat down relentlessly, especially during summer. The intense heat can raise the temperature inside your home.

Proper venting and insulation help keep the cool air in and the warm air out. So, too, do energy-efficient roofing materials, which take the brunt of the solar onslaught. Uncle Sam is encouraging homeowners to improve the roofs of their primary residences with a tax credit worth up to $1,500.

During 2009 and 2010, you can claim a credit for 30% of the cost of qualifying asphalt or metal roofing materials. The credit, which should be taken on IRS Form 5695 for the tax year in which the work is completed, can be split between 2009 and 2010 but can’t exceed $1,500 total for both years. You can’t claim more in credits than you owe in taxes.

Metal vs. asphalt roofs

To qualify for the tax credit, you must use either metal or asphalt roofing materials that are designed to reduce heat gain—the amount of heat transferred into a home—and meet the requirements of Energy Star, a federal program that promotes energy-efficient products and practices. Metal roofs must have appropriate pigmented coatings and asphalt roofs must have appropriate cooling granules. Asphalt materials can be either traditional shingles or modified bitumen (rolled asphalt sheets). Energy Star has a list of all of its approved roofing products, but only the metal and asphalt materials may qualify for the tax credit.

It’s a good idea to hang on to manufacturers’ certification statements that attest to the tax credit-worthiness of the roofing materials you purchase. These can usually be found on product packaging or company websites. You don’t need to file these with your tax return, but the IRS could ask for them later. Consult a tax adviser.

Dean Kucharski, a 22-year veteran of the roofing business in Pontiac, Mich., estimates that for a typical 2,200-square-foot home, a mid-range asphalt roof will run about $7,000 to $12,000, including labor. The good news is that it will likely last 20 years or more. For a metal roof, expect to pay twice as much, though it can last for 50 years, he says. If you hire a contractor, get an itemized bill that breaks out the cost of materials since labor doesn’t count toward the tax credit. Materials should account for about half the bill on standard roofing jobs.

How much roof do I have?

You can get a rough estimate of how much roofing material you’ll need by figuring the square footage of the footprint of your home and adding about one-third more to account for roof pitch, overhangs, dormers, gables, and so on. Roofing contractors often quote in terms of “squares.” One square equals 100 square feet. So if a roofer says your house is 20 squares, it means it’s roughly 2,000 square feet—20 times 100.

Once you’re ready to pick a roof type, Kucharski suggests talking to an area building wholesaler or a company that specializes in roofing materials. It’s important to consult with someone who knows what types of materials are appropriate for a given region’s climate. Big-box retailers may not have as wide a selection or knowledgeable staff.

Finding a good roofer entails the same steps as finding any qualified contractor: ask neighbors for recommendations, collect at least three bids, check references, and get everything in writing. Craig Silvertooth, executive director of the Center for Environmental Innovation in Roofing, recommends finding a contractor through the National Roofing Contractors Association, which has about 4,000 members.

Save on cooling bills

You’ll get the most bang for your roof-renovation buck if you live in a hot climate, namely the South and Southwest. Expect to save between 7% and 15% on your cooling costs with energy-efficient roofing materials, says Michelle Van Tijen of the Cool Roofs Rating Council. If you pay $300 a month to cool your home, figure you’ll cut your monthly bill by up to $45.

Ironically, with roofs there is such a thing as being too energy efficient. In winter months, roofing materials with very high heat-deflecting qualities can increase heating bills. However, you’re more than likely to make up the difference on your air-conditioning costs. That’s especially true if you live in an area where you run your air conditioner much of the year.

Think hard before replacing a roof that’s in perfectly good shape. Consider instead a roof coating, a material painted over your existing roof that offers insulation and sun reflection, says Silvertooth. Roof coating costs about 75% less than replacing a roof, though it doesn’t qualify for the tax credit. Another affordable way to save on cooling costs that doesn’t even involve the roof is to add more insulation to your attic. This home-improvement project can even be tackled by weekend warriors, and it qualifies for a federal tax credit.

This article provides general information about tax laws and consequences, but is not intended to be relied upon by readers as tax or legal advice applicable to particular transactions or circumstances. Readers should consult a tax professional for such advice, and are reminded that tax laws may vary by jurisdiction.

Gil Rudawsky has been covering business and consumer issues as a reporter and an editor for 18 years, most recently as a business editor at the Rocky Mountain News. He lives in a house built in the 1930s, and always keeps the homeís character in mind when making upgrades.

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Cut $100 per month from your electric bill and increase home value by $2,000

Replacing a standard 3,000-square-foot roof will set you back about $20,000, according to Remodeling magazine’s 2009-10 Cost vs. Value Report. When you sell, you can expect to recoup about two-thirds of that investment. But you can get back even more by incorporating features that make your home more environmentally sensitive, particularly if they are also energy upgrades. Appraisal Journal has estimated that every $100 cut from your annual energy bill adds $2,000 to your home’s value. Here’s a guide to some of the energy-saving features you might want to consider. Whether they make sense for you depends on the climate where you live, the style of your roof, and how much you’re willing to invest in a green upgrade.

Lower energy costs with a cool roof

On a sunny summer day, a typical roof can get 100 degrees hotter than the outside air. But a cool roof—one that reflects sunlight and doesn’t hold onto heat—will stay just a little above air temperature. That can lower your air conditioning costs by up to 15%, or an average of $56 a year, according to the U.S. Department of Energy. It also keeps your neighborhood cooler, allowing others to save, too.

If you have a sloped roof, your options include metal roofing or composition shingles that meet Energy Star standards. These come in many colors and, while they may cost a little more than conventional versions, are eligible for a federal tax credit of up to $1,500.

If you’re replacing a flat roof, you can cool it off simply by covering the worn-out material with a reflective plastic membrane made of TPO or PVC. (Flat roofing products do not qualify for the tax credit.)

Note that cool roofs don’t make sense everywhere. If heating costs dominate where you live, a reflective roof might actually increase your overall energy costs, because you’ll lose the sun’s warming effect in winter.

Bring in natural light through the roof

If you keep lights on all the time to brighten a dark room or hallway, consider adding a tubular skylight, which is simpler and less costly to install than a conventional roof window. With one of these, light comes in through a clear dome on the roof, bounces down through a reflective tube in the attic, and comes out through a diffuser that looks like a ceiling light fixture in the room below.

A light tube costs $150 to $400, but you’ll make some of that back in energy savings. Tests performed at the Alberta Research Council found that a 13-inch tubular skylight had the same light output as a 700-watt incandescent bulb, even in December. At standard electric rates, that’s the equivalent of $350 worth of light a year. Your savings will be more modest, but if the skylight lets you switch off just two 100-watt incandescents for six hours a day, you’ll pocket around $36 a year. Plus, a tubular skylight may be eligible for a federal energy tax credit of up to $1,500.

Generate power or make hot water on the roof

Solar power and hot-water systems are pricey upgrades: A typical solar water-heating system costs $4,000 to $6,000, while a solar electric system might cost $25,000 to $50,000. But generous tax incentives and rebates make them more feasible than ever. If you live in Oregon, for example, cash incentives and state and federal energy tax credits can offset up to 80% of the cost of solar electric equipment.

The best time to add one of these systems is when you’re installing a new roof, since that’s where the solar collectors or photovoltaic panels are usually placed. If you don’t like the look of solar panels, consider using less obtrusive power-generating shingles.

Plant a garden on the roof

A green roof, also called a garden roof, is one covered with plants growing in a thin layer of soil over a waterproofing layer. Popular in Europe, such roofs are still a boutique choice here, especially on houses.
Planting your roof is an expensive proposition, but it has many benefits. Green roofs insulate well, lower air-conditioning costs, help prevent floods by reducing storm runoff, and last a long time. New modular systems make installation relatively easy. Plastic grids fit together, keeping soil and plants in place even on sloped roofs. The materials cost about $10 a square foot, or $15 to $30 a square foot if you order them pre-loaded with soil and plants.

Weight is an issue, so you might also need to invest in strengthening your roof structure. The lightest systems, with just enough soil for low-growing sedum, a kind of succulent, start around 11 pounds a square foot when saturated with rain, compared with 2 1/2 to 3 pounds for composition shingles and 8 pounds for slate.

Jeanne Huber is a freelance writer specializing in home-repair topics. She installed two tubular skylights during her recent reroofing project.

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